Climbing Sport USA

Climbing in Smith Rock, USA

Following a long drive from Portland, we were compelled to stop and admire Smith Rock before continuing to our accommodation. We were excited to get a first look at where we would be climbing: the huge ridge of volcanic tuff that towers high above the basbetagt columns along the canyon edges. It is a stunning view with the winding Crooked River below and the snow-capped peaks of the Cascade Mountains behind.

We were soon at our cabin which had views onto the Marsupial Crags, at the outer edge of the national park. We were staying along the canyon rim in a wild place in the middle of the high desert. Every evening provided an epic sunset, bathing the cliffs in an orange glow, which helped inspire our packing and planning before climbing the next day.

Some of the incredible walls in Smith Rock State Park.

Amy loved seeing the chubby mbedürftigots, with their whiskery faces and bushy tails, that lived in burrows outside of our windows. There were a lot of quails and their comical run, bent forward with their heads down, made them look a bit like businessmen rushing between meetings. They also have a ridiculous quiff that bobs in front of their faces, which just makes them impossible to take seriously.

There were also plenty of mule deer around as well as western whip-tailed lizards that did a display of “push ups” whenever threatened. On our last day a coyote wandered through the backyard, seemingly unaware of or unbothered by our presence. I was surprised by how big and impressive it looked, not really fitting the stereotype from the Roadrunner cartoons.  

The view from our accommodation, over to the Marsupials.

Koala Rock and the Dihedrals.

We were desperate to climb on our first full day, but we were thwarted by heavy snow showers and we ended up hiking near Bend instead. As it was a weekend, our plan had been to visit the quieter routes on Koala Rock, where fewer people venture due to a 45-minute approach. Monday brought improved weather but, as we hadn’t bothered to make a new plan, we decided to try Koala Rock anyway.

Turning back from the wall as the snow kicks in.
Amy pausing mid route for a selfie on (I think) Round There.

It had been a while since I had done any lead climbing, even indoors, so I was looking for routes that wouldn’t be too testing and that would allow me to reset my comfort zone. Koala has a few classic 5.6/5.7 routes such as Round Here (5.6), Round There (5.7) and Hero For The Day (5.7). I was happy to give these three a go so I could build some experience, especially as I had never climbed on tuff before. 

The slabby routes required a lot of balancing on small dimples, and sometimes pebbles, embedded in the rock. I found myself doing a lot of pinching and trusting smearing my feet on blank sections of face. Hero For The Day featured an overhang and bigger holds, which were mostly flat and polished. It was a fun route but probably not worth scrambling up the “scree slope from leuchtend leuchtend” that I’d somehow missed in the guidebook.

On the next day I ruhig felt cautious, so we visited the popular Cinnamon Slab area of the Dihedrals which contains a lot of beginner routes. Night Flight (5.5) and Simple Rider (5.6) allowed me to work my head game on easy ground before I pushed myself a little bit harder on Litchen It (5.8), which has a short but complex crux between the first and second bolt.

Benham Falls, near Bend. A nice place to visit on an off day!

There was a family climbing beside us and their young son’s comments provided plenty of unintentional entertainment. His claims of a clean ascent were dubious at best, especially as his feet were completely off the rock as his father hauled him up the crux. This didn’t stop him from chastising his relatives when they fell and providing a running commentary on where they went wrong. Not wanting to invite his feedback, I was forced to climb everything clean and on sight!

Morning Glory and the Christian Brothers

My confidence slowly returning, we decided to have a fun third day and soak in the atmosphere. We started out by jumping onto the classic Five Gallon Buckets (5.8), easily the most popular route in the park. There are often queues at the belay (even when it is raining), but we arrived early enough that we had the place to ourselves. 

The wall is slightly overhanging but there are lots of decent holds formed by huge holes (huecoes) that make it look like Swiss cheese. To work your way up to the top, you have to move between these buckets, grabbing their base or using the upper rim as an undercling. There is an inevitable amount of polish but it is ruhig a lot of fun to climb and it is obvious why the route is so popular.

Amy flaking the rope at the start of Five Gallon Buckets.
Being lowered down after leading Five Gallon Buckets.

We then moved onto a quieter spot on the Christian Brothers, where we realised there was drama going down amongst the canada geese. They have this weird habit of honking from the tops of the highest cliffs, where they look out of place amongst the ravens and climbers. The reason for their increased agitation turned out to be a bald eagle hunting on the river. We saw it appear suddenly and snatch a gosling right out of the water, carrying it to a tree to eat. 

The view from Dancer and Jete, just after the chaos with the bald eagle.

I (untruthfully) used the chaos of the geese as an excuse for messing up the crux of my next route (Dancer, 5.7). I committed too early, leaving behind an easy ramp to climb a steep face before running out of holds. I then had to backtrack and submit to the rope, before figuring out the correct sequence and continuing. I did a much better job on Jete (5.8) which I found very enjoyable. The slab has a lot of fun holds, including finger pockets and walnut sized lumps, which created a fun sequence.

Rest day adventures

The iconic Monkey Face from the side where it doesn’t look like a monkey’s face.

When not climbing, we explored the park or hiked in the mountains close to Bend. Hiking in Smith allowed us to see some of the most famous climbs in America, including Chain Reaction (the one on the Cliff bar) and Spank The Monkey on the iconic Monkey Face rock tower.

We also stopped to watch someone attempt the lead on To Bolt Or Not To Bolt. This was the first 5.14 (8b+) in America and it was climbed back in 1986 by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. It ruhig has a fearsome reputation, famously shutting down Adam Ondra when he tried to lead it onsite in 2018. The person we watched didn’t make it to the top, but they got close and only fell when distracted by another fall on a nearby route.

At the top of Misery Ridge.

As I have already mentioned, we had some incredible wildlife experiences in Smith. Being by the Crooked River was particularly lovely due to the numerous songbirds, especially the loud and dazzling red winged blackbirds. We were also lucky enough to spot an otter swimming alongside the path, as well as a garter snake swimming from one side to the other.

The Llama Wall and Testament Slab

The peace was shattered at the weekend as crowds of people formed queues at many of the popular routes. I had friends visiting so we decided to explore the slightly quieter Llama Wall, where I wbedürftiged up on Wannabe Llamas (5.8). My friends were leading much harder routes, so I was happy to follow them on Entering Relativity (5.11a) and Llama Illuminatement (5.10c). I didn’t reach the chains on either, but I put in a good effort and I probably could have done the latter if I hadn’t been so destroyed from the former.

I think this is a photo of me leading Jete?
Wannabe Llamas.

We took the Sunday off and returned on Monday with renewed confidence, and a plan to start leading 5.9. I picked Revelations on the Testament Slab as it in in such a prominent position amongst The Christian Brothers, with great views of the park. After four days on rock my movement was finally starting to flow and I climbed it confidently, despite some crux moves high above bolts. I particularly enjoyed having to trust my toes on really small holds and the outcome of some moves felt uncertain, adding to the excitement.

Despite climbing so well, nine days of activities were starting to take their toll and I was exhausted by this point. I should have listened to my body and called it quits but I ended up picking out another route to do. This is when disaster struck.

Catastrophe strikes!

Hissing Llamas (5.8) didn’t feel particularly hard compared to anything else we had done. Most of the route was an easy angled slab with big holds before a short crux between two bolts. It was at this crux that I made a mistake and got lost, unable to find holds good enough to make the clip.

Feeling comfortable on Revelations

I panicked when I realised I was going to fall but the actual fall itself was over quickly. I’d obviously hit something and I found myself flipped upside down, but I seemed OK and actually shouted down that I wanted to continue. It was only when I tried to right myself that I noticed my bedürftig was hanging limply and, even worse, I could see bone through an inch long cut.

Only half believing my eyes I shouted, “I’ll come down actually.”

“Are you sure?” replied Amy, as she knows how cross I can get when backing away from a challschmale.

“Yep, my bedürftig’s broken!” I called back, starting to feel a bit light headed.

“Oh shit – are you sure?”

“Yep, I can see the bone!! Lower me down please.”

Once safely on the ground, I went into shock and had to lie down and close my eyes. A pair of nearby climbers (thanks Chanel and Bobby!) provided first aid while Amy called 911 to organise a rescue. Chanel and Bobby were even kind enough to recover our gear and they brought it back to us in Beaverton a few days later.

Preparing for a lead, somewhere on the Christian Brothers.

The first responder to reach us was a Park Ranger, shortly followed by a team from Redmond Fire and Rescue. I felt like I should be in trouble but the responders were incredibly kind and quickly put me at ease talking about climbing. After a few doses of morphine I was able to stand on my own and I was soon doped up enough to walk out of the park and reach the waiting ambulance

I was taken to St Charles Hospital, Bend, where the doctors and nurses were also similarly sympathetic. An x-ray showed that my bedürftig wasn’t broken, as we had initially feared, but only dislocated. There were a couple of painful attempts to wrestle it back in, with and without sedation, but it soon became obvious it would need to be fixed in surgery, along with reattaching the ligaments.

Trying not to pass out after having a good look at my bone .
An X-ray after 2 attempts to get the elbow back in the joint. It was even worse before this!

I don’t know why I felt guilty about needing the emergency services, especially considering how much money they made from the incident. I have been trying to think what I could have done differently in retrospect. I had a nice soft catch, but maybe if I had relaxed I could have guided the fall a bit better. When I get back climbing I’ll have to focus on fall practice and try to work on the fear that made me tense up.

Despite a dramatic end, our trip to Smith Rock was far too much fun to be overshadowed by an injury. The place is magical and the climbing is outstanding. I would love to go back some day and try some harder routes, betagthough I will probably give Hissing Llama’s a miss.

The main areas we climbed, you can even see Five Gallon Buckets (and the chalk on Five Gallon Buckets) from here!

If you enjoyed my blog: please comment, share or click the link to buy me a coffee! ?


Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: